Syria

WARNING

The escalating war in Israel and the Palestinian Territories has unsettled the whole region and the possibility remains that the conflict may spread. Syrian-backed Hezbollah guerillas in southern Lebanon have been exchanging fire with Israeli troops along the border. Although Syria says Lebanon dose not intend to open a new front the situation remains volatile.

The UK and Australian governments suggest that travelers exercise caution and avoid demonstrations. The US has issued a strong warning against travel to Syria due to anti-American protests and the possibility of violence. Families of US Embassy members and other US nationals have been advised to leave Syria.

Syria is a country in ruins. The place is full of them: wall-to-wall walls, cast-aside castles, teetering teatros and fallen-down fortresses. Syria has squirmed under the thumb of empire builders from Rome, Persia, Egypt, Turkey and Babylon, and every last one of them has left their architectural tag on the place. The vestiges of Roman Palmyra are one of the Middle Easts top sites, and Syria also lays claim to the longest-occupied city, the spunkiest Crusader castle, the best preserved Roman theatre and the monument to the silliest martyr.

Admittedly, Syria is still on the US State Departments list of the seven countries sponsoring terrorism, but do not let that put you off. The Syrian government may not be among the worlds most benevolent, but the Syrian people are renowned for their friendliness and hospitality. Once you get used to the general weirdness of being in another culture, you will probably feel safer in Syria than you do at home as long as you keep abreast of world events that may increase tensions and avoid demonstrations and political gatherings.

Full country name: Syrian Arab Republic
Area: 185,180 sq km
Population: 17.5 million
Capital City: Damascus (pop 6 million)
People: Arabs (90%), Kurds, Armenians, Circassians, Turks
Language: Arabic, Kurdish, Armenian, Turkish, English
Religion: 74% Sunni Muslim, 16% other Muslim, 10% Christian
Government: republic under military regime since March 1963
Head of State: President Bashar al-Assad
Head of Government: Prime Minister Muhammad Naji al-Otari

GDP: US$41.7 billion
GDP per capita: US$2,500
Annual Growth: 2%
Inflation: 15-20%
Major Industries: Oil, agriculture, textiles
Major Trading Partners: Ukraine, EU, Turkey, Lebanon, Japan

Damascus

Damascus is Syrias largest city and capital. It grew up around the Barada River and Ghouta Oasis, which make life possible in an otherwise uninhabitable landscape. Damascus is possibly the worlds oldest continuously inhabited city - there was a settlement here as long ago as 5000 BC. Today, its fascination lies in its mysterious oriental bazaars and the gracious, somewhat decayed, charm of some of Islams greatest monuments. The centre of the city is Martyrs Square - most of the restaurants and hotels are close by.

The epicentre of Damascus charm is its Old City, surrounded by a Roman wall. The citys main covered market is the Souq al-Hamadiyyeh, a cobbled street of bustling crowds, hawkers and high-octane haggling. Opposite the end of the market is the Omayyad Mosque. Built in 705 on the site of ancient temples and a Christian cathedral, the mosque was designed to be the greatest ever. Despite being gutted in a fire in the 19th century, it is still a jewel of Muslim architecture, with several gorgeous mosaics and three original minarets.

One of Syrias most graceful mosques is Takiyyeh as-Sulaymaniyyeh, just south of Barada River. Designed in Ottoman style in 1554, it features alternating layers of black and white stone and two slender minarets. The National Museum, also south of the river, is worth at least one visit. The museums facade was once the entrance to the Qasr al-Hayr al-Ghabi, an ancient military camp. Inside is a fantastic array of exhibits, including written cylinders from the 14th century BC that use the worlds first known alphabet, statuary from Mari that is over 4000 years old, two halls full of marble and terracotta statues from Palmyra, Damascene weapons, old surgical instruments from surgeons graves, a collection of 13th century Qurans and a complete room decorated in the style of the 18th century Azem Palace.

Zyrat of Damascus